Chiloe

Muelle del Alma is one of many mystical places on the island of Chiloe. According to the legend, the wood pier is for the souls to board boat bringing them to the other world. why is this pier just there in the middle of nowhere? for that there is a legend of course, but this doesn’t tell you the whole story. you have to go there and find the explanation or make your own legend.

Even if your not so much into the mystery stuff, you can enjoy the wonderful coast of the pacific ocean surrounded by hills, cliffs, special trees and dark blue ocean. acoustically the harmony is completed by the roaring ocean and screaming sea lions accompanied by sea birds.

If you will look for more legends, you will find out about Trauco, Fiura, Sirena and others. For local people they have been part of their lifes. So if you get pregnant and don’t know exactly how that happened, Trauco is to blame.

Chiloe is famous for it’s outstanding craftmanship. the wooden houses called palafitos are an icon of Chiloe. local markets are full of beautiful artisan products.

Things I recommend in Chiloe

• Muelle del Alma
• Chiloe National Park

and if you have more time

• pinguin watching in Punihuil
• just visit all churches in Chiloe. they are all unique!

How to get to Chiloe

• By bus from Puerto Montt
• By boat from hitch hiking

Torres del Paine

Towers like columns holding glaciers, raising above turquoise blue lakes, Patagonian wind that strong that is almost blowing you away. This is definitely one of the most fascinating places on Earth I have been so far.

Torres del Paine is located in the north of Chilean Patagonian in the former Mapuche and Tehuelche territories. Other native inhabitants of the park that are, however, still at home there, are for example pumas, Patagonian foxes, hares and others. When you arrive at the park, you get instructions how to live along these animals to avoid any fights (especially the ones with pumas).

In Torres del Paine you can spend weeks hiking. The longest hiking circuit is called the ‘O’ circuit. Very famous is the ‘W’ trek leading through the most beautiful parts of the park. On my trip, I had only 2 days for Torres del Paine. Together with my friend, we started with the western part of the ‘W’ trek, going from Refugio Paine Grande to the glacier ‘Grey’. Walking from the lake Pehoe, the path is crossing meadows and going up on the hillside of the Torres mountains. Passing a sparse forest, duck lake (‘Lago de los Patos’) without ducks and finally, if you get over the extremely windy pass, you’ll have a view on a scenery with glacier Grey merging into lake Grey, falling apart into ice bergs which are floating then all over the lake.

On the second day, we set off direction Valle del Francés. This valley in the heart of the national park is one of the highest points accessible by hiking trails. Walking along the lakes Pehoe and Stokenberg, you reach the river that goes through the whole Valle del Francés. Climbing up along the river you can already see the glacier caps on the top of the mountains sliding down to the valley. Sometimes the silence is disturbed by the noise of breaking ice of the glacier. When you finally reach the plateau of the valley, unforgettable panorama view on Torres opens in front of you. Crossing the plateau, you reveal more more of this panorama until you reach the view point (mirador), where you have the full panorama view. When you look down through the valley, you can see the lakes of the national park all with different colors.

Things I recommend in Torres del Paine

• ‘W’ trek (or at least Valle del Francés and Glaciar grey)

and if you have more time

• as much as possible 🙂

How to get to Torres del Paine

• By bus from Puerto Natales
• By boat from Puerto Natales

Canal Beagle

Canal Beagle is an amazing place connecting Atlantic Ocean and Pacific Ocean, separating Argentinian Tierra del Fuego and Chilean Isla de Navarino. Surrounded by mountains, you will experience fascinating views and unique nature.

My first touch with Canal Beagle was on the Argentinian side in the city of Ushuaia where I arrived after flying for 4 hours from Buenos Aires. Argentinians call this city the end of the world, which is not really accurate, because on the other side of the canal you can find the Chilean town of Puerto Williams. Life in this city laying on hillside can be sometimes tough. Particularly, based on the deformations of cars, you can see that the roads turn into a slide many times during winter.

Ushuaia is rather a touristic city not only for being a capital of Tierra del Fuego but also for being a gateway to Antarctica. In local cafes, you can see pictures and messages expeditions from all over the world left behind.

Rather than being in the city, there is much more to explore outdoors. Around the channel, you can experience almost untouched nature. An easy way to enjoy it is to take one of the hiking routes in the National Park Tierra del Fuego. Walking around Bahia Lapataia, passing Turbas (wetlands), observing wildly running horses and surrounded by species completely different to Europe will make this an unforgettable experience. I visited the park in October, in the beginning of spring. Still, the climate was cool enough to wear my winter jacket. Be aware of sudden changes in the weather that are driven by the two oceans.

Things I recommend around Canal Beagle

• National Park Tierra del Fuego
• boat cruise around Canal Beagle
• Plaza Malvinas in Ushuaia
• museum of native tribes in Ushuaia

and if you have more time

• boat cruise to Punta Arenas
• Isla de Navarino

How to get to Ushuaia

• by plane from Buenos Aires
• by bus from Punta Arenas (CL), Rio Gallegos (AR), etc.
• by boat from Punta Arenas
• by boat from Antarctica 🙂
• hiking with penguins :))

Buenos Aires

El Ateneo Grand Splendid is probably the most famous book shop in Buenos Aires, perhaps in the world. it is taking space in a former theatre, offering spaces for reading. just being there makes you feel the unique experience of a place where time has stopped and everyone is being set to his own world.

Buenos Aires is the most European city in South America. in the city center you will see districts in which you feel you’re in Paris, other districts are more like Spain or Italy. though, there are great differences between the people which result in very poor outer districts, almost like slums, and very rich districts with expensive villas.

even though there are European styled district, the city is living Argentinian life. you can still see people dancing tango in La Boca or you can treat yourself with delicious asado in most of the local restaurants.

Things I recommend in Buenos Aires

• Cemeterio de Recoletta
• La Boca

and if you have more time

• Feria de Mataderos
• Mafalda Museum

How to get to Buenos Aires

• in most cases by plane probably 😉

El Chalten & Fitz Roy

Fitz Roy is a symbol of Patagonia. Together with Cerro Torre they are probably two most photogenic peaks in Patagonia. You can find them both in the mountain chain close to El Chalten.

El Chalten is being considered as the Argentinian Mecca for all hikers. There is a whole network of hiking routes which you can combine according to the time you have available and your stamina. The most popular track leads to Lagos de Los Tres which lies just at the bottom of Fitz Roy. You can admire the spectacular peak of Fitz Roy as well as the view to the valley with Lago Viedma.

Things I recommend in El Chalten

• Hike to Lago de Los Tres

How to get to El Chalten

• By bus from El Calafate
• By hitch hiking